Автор фото: Дарья Филимонова

В мае 2012 года по работе посчастливилось совершить марш-бросок поперек Индии: Дели – Джайпур – Мумбаи за неделю.

Смартфона и инстаграмма у меня тогда не было, времени гулять тоже – вся поездка проходила в достаточно жестком режиме с посещением фабрик и встречами с производителями (работала в сфере производства женской одежды). Недавно обнаружила несколько кадров с той поездки и нахлынули воспоминания. Они, конечно, весьма обрывочны за давностью лет, но запоминаются, как известно, наиболее интересные моменты.

 

Дели

Контраст роскоши и бедности. Наверное, в столице он ощущается больше, чем в остальных городах. Шикарные отели (в нашем были фонтаны, мрамор, сад с павлинами и прочие атрибуты богатой жизни), где персонал носится с тобой как с писаной торбой. Воды из кувшина налить или стул от стола сам не успеваешь отодвинуть – уже подбегает помощник. И отказывать вроде как нельзя – обидишь, ведь этим служением он отрабатывает карму в этой своей жизни, это его долг.

Подробнее о социальных контрастах я писала в статье Такая разная Индия: роскошь vs нищета

Джайпур

Поразил эко-бутик-отель, в котором мы жили. Пульт управления освещением в номере был больше похож на приборную панель какого-то космического корабля: для экономии ресурсов, каждый источник света (а их было много) можно было отрегулировать по мощности, выбрать наиболее экономичный сценарий освещения. Помню долго с коллегой не могли понять, как же выключить свет в ванной, а ведь в Индии, как и во всей юго-восточной Азии, любят ставить прозрачные перегородки между душевой и спальней.

Еще в отеле был бассейн на крыше. Было немного странно находиться в этом оазисе, наблюдая с высоты 5 или 6 этажа за пустынным районом, разрушенными (или изначально построенными из подручных материалов?) жилыми массивами и свалками мусора.

В Джайпуре очень много вегетарианцев. Но при этом там же с нашими партнерами-мусульманами из Джайпура мы ходили в нереальный гриль-ресторан, где прямо в столе жаровня и тебе бесконечно приносят на пробу разное мясо – мне пришлось попробовать штук 10 разных видов. Как по мне, так это скорее для мужских компаний, мой организм от такого количества белковой пищи был в шоке.

О том, какие лекарства, в том числе учитывая специфику индийской кухни, лучше взять с собой в Азию — в статье «Какие лекарства взять с собой на Шри-Ланку».

 

В Джайпуре, на мой взгляд, второе после итальянского по качеству и вкусу мороженное. Так как корова в Индии — это священное животное, молочные продукты здесь просто высший класс.

 

Читайте так же:

 

Мумбаи

Типичный город-порт. Небоскребы, куча машин, весьма грязно. Но в отличии от того же Джайпура, где пыльно и на улицах много пищевых отходов, здесь отходы сплошь промышленные. А еще бетон, стекло, пальмы, шум, гам и суета. Большое количество огромных недостроев, порою целые кварталы.

Еще одна зарисовка: съехав с проспекта в небольшой переулок, мы попали в офис одного из местных производителей. Офис оставил неизгладимое впечатление. Маленькая комнатенка на 2 этаже, плохо освещенная.

 

За то время, что мы сидели и вели беседы о многотысячных заказах, в эту «переговорную» зашло как минимум 3 курицы, 2 собаки и влетел голубь.

 

При этом в коридоре прямо на полу и на ступенях сидят дети и пожилые люди, вышивая и собирая декоры из бисера. Как что-то можно разглядеть в такой темноте и вообще работать в таких условиях, мне, конечно, не понять…

 

Что еще бросается в глаза, так это то, что вне зависимости от уровня достатка, все женщины ходят в очень красивых сари. Да, есть различие в тканях и вышивке – у кого-то дороже, у кого-то дешевле – но все они носят их с каким-то особым достоинством и выглядит это очень красиво.

 

Индия очень разная, очень яркая и контрастная. Во всех смыслах.

 

Я понимаю, что туристическое путешествие в Индию и деловая поездка, где тебя встречают, возят на машине и всячески оберегают – это разные вещи. Хотела бы я поехать в Индию «дикарем»? Возможно. Но все-таки меня больше привлекают островные части и побережье, нежели индийские крупные города.

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