Автор фото: Семен Кузьмин

Скандинавия кажется далекой, холодной и очень дорогой.  И все-таки невозможно отрицать ее притягательность. Да и насчет дороговизны можно поспорить — если знать некоторые секреты путешественников.

В июне 2017 мы с друзьями совершили марш-бросок (1800км) из Санкт-Петербурга в Унстад. Мы ехали за cold water surfing’ом (серфинг в холодной воде) — это не совсем типичная туристическая поездка, без посещения музеев, экскурсий, без заезда в большие города. И тем не менее вот 5 веских для меня поводов вновь отправиться в Страну Викингов.

 

1. Полярный день

Жители Петербурга, казалось бы, привыкли к белым ночам. К ночам — да. Но полярный день — это нечто в разы более впечатляющее. У тебя в сутках просто будто нет ни начала, ни конца. Они бесконечны. Не темнеет вообще.

 

Представляете, солнце 2,5 месяца вообще не заходит за горизонт!

 

Сначала организм немного не понимает, что происходит, но потом ты начинаешь получать истинное удовольствие от того, что день не заканчивается — откуда-то берутся силы на все новые и новые подвиги, путешествия и приключения.

 

2. Фьорды

Наравне с викингами, пожалуй, наиболее часто встречающийся символ Норвегии. В этой стране около 100 фьордов, не считая ответвлений.

 

Фьорд (норв. fjord) — узкий, извилистый, глубоко врезавшийся в сушу морской залив со скалистыми берегами. В длину фьорд в десятки раз больше, чем в ширину.

 

Образовался этот вид ландшафта, когда ледники начали отступать и «раскрывшиеся» долины заполнила морская вода. Наиболее популярными у туристов считаются расположенные на западном побережье Нэрëй-фьорд, Согне-фьорд, Люсе-фьорд и Гейрангер-фьорд. Все три находятся под защитой ЮНЕСКО.

Мы не особо запоминали, мимо каких именно фьордов проезжаем. Поверьте, они все прекрасны. О том, каким чудесным образом вписана транспортная инфраструктура в эти красоты природы — следующий пункт.

 

3. Мосты и тоннели

В Норвегии десятки тысяч тоннелей. Причем часто это не просто прямой отрезок дороги в скале: например, есть тоннели с круговым движением и перекрестками. По безопасности все «схвачено»: через каждые 200 метров размещены огнетушители и аварийные телефоны.

 

Самый длинный — Лердальский автомобильный тоннель (24,5 км). Строили его пять лет. Стоил он государству около 113 млн евро.

 

Мостов в Норвегии более 20 тысяч. Много вантовых. А как иначе: ведь без них передвижение между островами и фьордами было бы крайне проблематичным.

Мосты в Норвегии поражают не только своим количеством и разнообразием форм, но и шириной. Много мостов шириной в 1,5 машины! Не на трассах, конечно, а в местах с трафиком поспокойнее. Никаких светофоров, никаких знаков приоритета: просто как договоритесь с водителем встречного авто.

alt Дороги Норвегии

Дороги Норвегии. Фото: Семен Кузьмин

Все вместе эти элементы — тоннели и мосты — составляют потрясающую картину, дополняющую впечатления о Норвегии. Передвигаться по этим современным архитектурным формам очень удобно. Жаль, что не всегда удается остановиться, чтобы сфотографировать — хотя надо отдать должное, смотровых площадок на трассах достаточно много.

 

4. Серфинг

Если верить рассказам, то в Унстаде, куда мы и направлялись, серферы катаются аж с 1963 года. Тор Францен (Thor Frantzen) и Ханс Эгил Кране (Hans Egil Krane), вероятно, были первыми серферами в Норвегии. Будучи молодыми мальчиками, им приходилось работать на судах, чтобы зарабатывать деньги. Суда путешествовали по всему миру, и в Австралии они впервые увидели и попробовали серфинг. Вернувшись домой на Лофотенские острова, они решили сделать свои собственные серфборды. Форму досок они взяли с обложки альбома американской группы Beach Boys «Surfin’Safari» 1962 года. Эти доски можно увидеть в серф-школе в Унстаде, которая была основана в 2003 году Тор Франценом и его женой. Сейчас серф-кемпингом владеет их сын.

alt the beach boys - surfin safari

В Норвегию приезжает много серферов с разных уголков мира. Когда мы были в Унстаде, мы видели немцев, финнов, датчан, британцев, шведов. Кто-то приезжает с палатками и на серф-басах, чтобы дождаться прогноза прямо на месте. Кто-то, как и мы, жил в близлежащих деревушках и городках.

Серфинг в холодной воде, конечно, это отдельный вид мазохизма =) Тем, кто плохо переносит холодные температуры, стоит подумать дважды. Но при наличии хорошего оборудования — вы просто обязаны прокатиться на этих хрустально-голубых волнах в окружении скал. От видов с лайн-апа дух захватывает и мурашки бегают по всему телу не только от температуры воды.

 

Гидрокостюм и неопреновые ботинки для серфинга советую в июне не меньше 5 мм. Меня в гидрике 4.3мм и ботах 3мм хватало на час катания при том, что я морозостойкий сибиряк.

 

Перчатки так же необходимы. Я, как и многие скандинавы, каталась без неопренового шлема — просто не люблю его. Но если не уверены в силе своего иммунитета — лучше не экспериментировать со здоровьем.

Доски мы везли свои, но в серф-школе и серф-шопе в долине напротив спота можно взять все необходимое в аренду.

 

5. Водопады

Их тысячи. Еще находясь на территории Швеции и не доехав до границы с Норвегией, уже хотелось останавливаться через каждые 100 метров, чтобы сфотографировать эту красоту. Горы, снег, лед… И чистейшие бурные потоки воды, срывающиеся с отвесных скал. Начало свое водопады берут в ледниках. Просто не-ре-аль-но.

Небольшое видео из нашего 5-ти дневного серф-трипа в Норвегию (19-23 июня 2017):

P.S. Да, в предисловии к статье упомянула про «секретики», благодаря которым поездка в Норвегию может стоить совершенно не безумных денег. Мне вот моя обошлась в июне 2017 в 30 тысяч рублей на неделю (с проживанием, проездом, едой). Про то, как съездить так же бюджетно, расскажу в отдельной статье.

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