Автор фото: Cliff Durden

Неоднократно слышала фразу «Португалия — страна для гедонистов». И да, после того, как стала ездить туда регулярно, готова под этими словами подписаться.

Ниже вы найдете 7 базовых, на мой взгляд, пунктов, которые обязательно стоит самолично опробовать, если поедете в эту страну.

 

1. Осьминог

В Португалии этот типичный для Средиземноморья моллюск можно встретить в совершенно разных вариациях приготовления. Но, на мой взгляд, правило «чем проще — тем лучше» идеально работает с этим блюдом. Увидите в меню grilled octopus — берите обязательно. Как правило это гораздо вкуснее жареных/тушеных/маринованных/во фритюре вариантов.

Мой однозначный фаворит среди всех съеденных осьминогов — в Taberna do Ganhao, которая находится в деревне Балеал, что в 100км на север от Лиссабона. Если честно, это единственное блюдо, которое мы там ели: просто как попробовали с первого захода в это место — всё, любовь с первого кусочка. Для полноты картины скажу, что приезжая в Португалию 2 раза в год, стабильно 2-3 раза за приезд едим там осьминога. Подают его с рукколой, помидором, сваренным в соленой воде бэйби-картофелем и выпаренным бальзамиком и стоит это всё 14EUR. При этом там не одно щупальце, как подаются в наших ресторанах, а штук 5-6 внушительного размера — порцией реально наедаешься.

alt осьминог на гриле в Балеале

P.S. Возьмите к осьминогу местное пиво Sagres или Vino Verde — «зеленое вино». Это португальское вино из провинции Минью, расположенной на севере Португалии. Очень свежее и, что называется, «питкое». Предназначено для употребления в течение первого года после розлива.

alt Виноградники, Португалия

Виноградники, Португалия. Фото: Семен Кузьмин

P.P.S. Taberna do Ganhao, как и многие заведения в некрупных португальских городах, не работает в несезон, учтите это, если планируете поездку в период с ноября по март.

 

2. Портвейн

Португалия — Порто — портвейн. Логичнее цепочки быть не может. Собственно, название произошло от немецкого portwein, что дословно переводится как «вино из Порто».

 

Согласно международному маркетинговому праву, название «портвейн» имеют право носить только крепленые вина, произведенные в долине реки Дору (северо-восток Португалии).

Бренды порвейна, которые смело можете покупать в обычных португальских супермаркетах и везти домой вместо магнитика: Offley, Sandeman, W. & J. Graham, Cálem, Taylor.

alt Склады с бочками портвейна

Склады с бочками портвейна. Фото: Семен Кузьмин

 

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3. Серфинг

Португалия по праву имеет статус одной из главных европейских мекк серфинга. Самыми популярными городами считаются Эрисейра (полчаса езды на машине от Лиссабона) и Пенише (1,5ч). Но вообще все протяженное западное побережье, омываемое водами Атлантического океана, изобилует серф-спотами. С чего лучше всего начать занятия серфингом я уже писала здесь.

Сезон серфинга в Португалии с мая по конец октября. Но я там была и в марте, и в апреле, и в ноябре, и в феврале. И каталась. Как по мне — там всегда хорошо. А в «не сезон» большой плюс, что нет пляжников и гораздо меньше конкурентов на волне.

Кстати, мои друзья недавно открыли мини-гостиницу в Пенише — если интересно, пишите на eat-fit-travel@mail.ru, скину цены и фото. Там уютно, близко до спотов и серф-школ, а также можно доехать на машине/автобусе/велосипеде до Supertubos — одного из крутейших спотов, где часто проводятся соревнования с участием элиты мирового серфинга. Лезть там в воду явно не следует, если не уверены в уровне своего катания, а вот посидеть повпечатляться на берегу и съесть бургер в небольшой кафешке на пляже, запивая португальским пивом Sagres, точно советую.

alt Супертубош, Португалия

Семен Кузьмин

 

4. Пить кофе. Много.

Я не особо хорошо разбираюсь в кофе, для меня показатель, собственно, один: либо мне вкусно, либо нет. Так вот не знаю, чем отличается португальский кофе от прочих, но здесь я его пью раза по 3-4 в день.

Особый шарм кофейной культуре Португалии придает и то, что в большинстве городов, где я была, по-прежнему сохранились аутентичные кофейни, где нет модных «капучино», «латте» и т.п. — есть только cafe и cafe grande. Переводя на язык городских кофеманов — эспрессо и американо. Но «американо» (cafe grande) представляет собой не эспрессо, разбавленный водой, а качественный, проливной кофе. И его не таз, а кофейная чашка 150мл, достаточная для того, чтобы взбодриться, распробовать вкус и насладиться напитком.

 

Найти такие кофейни легко: увидите желто-красную треугольную вывеску Delta — смело заходите.

 

Даже если со стороны кажется, что на приличное кафе не похоже совсем: обычно там простой незамысловатый интерьер со столами, часто покрытыми клеенкой, пара столиков на улице и много пожилых людей, потягивающих кофе с рюмашкой порвейна.

alt португальский кофе

 

Кофе можно с чистой совестью привозить как сувенир с отдыха — покупайте в обычных супермаркетах тот же Delta, не прогадаете.

Стоимость чашки кофе в кофейне всего 0.80-1.10 EUR. Крайне рекомендую брать к кофе нату за 1-1.2EUR. Этому десерту португальской кухни стоит посвятить отдельный пункт.

 

5. Ната

Pastel de nata [паштел-де-ната] — это национальная португальское пирожное, представляющее собой корзиночку из слоеного теста с начинкой из заварного крема.

Они были придуманы в монастыре Mosteiro dos Jerónimos в XVIII веке. Собственно, крем был придуман для того, чтобы куда-то девать яичные желтки, т.к. белки массово использовались для подкрахмаливания одежды, простыней и т.п.

alt pastel-de-nata

На сегодняшний день наты можно найти не только среди обширного ассортимента кафе и ресторанов, но также существуют отдельные паштел’арии или нат’ерии.

 

Паштел-де-Белен (по рецепту паштеларии данного города) завоевал 15-е место в рейтинге самых вкусных деликатесов мира, проведённом The Guardian.

 

На данный момент лично я самые вкусные наты ела в небольшом городке Leiria, что в 90км от Пениши. Друзья настоятельно советуют посетить паштеларию в Лиссабоне. В ближайшее время поеду в Португалию — обязательно найду ее, попробую и напишу 😉

 

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6. Сфотографировать азулежу

Азул’ежу (порт. azulejo) — это те самые декоративные изразцы в различных вариациях, которые сейчас так много и часто вставляют в интерьер. В Португалии же она используется повсеместно: ею облицовывают фасады домов, лестницы, печи и т.п. Традиционно это — расписанная глиняная плитка 14х14см, покрытая глазурью.

 

Сама плитка была завезена в Португалию арабами. С арабского zulaycha или zuleija переводится как «маленький полированный камушек».

 

Азулежу наравне с красными черепичными крышами создает тот самый неповторимый португальский колорит. Остановиться фотографировать ее, гуляя по улицам любого города, крайне сложно. Но точно стоит попробовать — может быть, у вас силы воли на это хватит, мой же телефон после каждой поездки переполнен.

 

7. Прокатиться на желтом трамвае

Желтые трамваи, чудом поднимающиеся под немыслимым углом и вписывающиеся в узенькие улочки Лиссабона, — еще один визуальный образ, без которого представить себе Португалию сложно. Более современный транспорт, безусловно, пришел на смену классике, но тем не менее на сегодняшний день в Лиссабоне по 4 из 5 линий курсируют именно вагоны старого образца. Наибольшей популярностью у туристов пользуется маршрут трамвая #28, идущего из самого центра (от площади Martim Moniz) на холм Graça, по ходу движения проезжая замок и все самые живописные районы города.

alt трамваи в Лиссабоне

Фото: Дарья Филимонова

 

В некоторых местах города для того, чтобы трамвай смог проехать, пришлось специально скосить угол здания в ходе прокладывания рельс.

Кстати, в конце 19 века трамваи тянули настоящие, а не электрические, лошадиные силы. Как представлю, под каким углом бедным животным приходилось тягать конку — аж дурно становится: углы тут самые невероятные, стены почти отвесные.

Ну и напоследок — небольшая видео-нарезка о путешествии по Португалии:

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